Sommelier Masterclass

Chenin Blanc × Yang Ming

Terroir & Expression Tasting Journey — from the historic Loire Valley to the Cape.

First recorded
845 AD
Known parent
Savagnin, Jura
Styles
Sec → Moelleux
Largest plantings
South Africa
Part I

The Chameleon Grape

Exploring the ancestral home of Chenin Blanc across the benchmark terroirs of the Middle Loire Valley — one grape that changes its shape with every soil, exposure and hand that picks it.

Aromatic Complexity

What Chenin tastes like

Signature notes of quince, chamomile, green apple, wool, bruised pear and wild honey evolve into rich lanolin and truffle with bottle age.

  • Wool
  • Lanolin
  • Beeswax
  • Quince
  • Chamomile
  • Green apple
  • Bruised pear
  • Wild honey
  • Nuts
  • Dried fruits
  • Truffle
Chart of Chenin Blanc flavour profiles by style: dry, off-dry, sparkling, sweet, young and old
Six styles, six aromatic registers — the same grape.
Origins

A thousand years on the river

9th c.
Mentioned in 845 AD records from the Abbey of Glanfeuil, in the Anjou region.
15–16th c.
Spreads to Touraine; named after Mont Chenin, near the Château de Chenonceau.
Classic era
Becomes the signature white grape of the Loire Valley — Vouvray, Anjou and their neighbours.
Parentage
One known parent grape: Savagnin, from the Jura.
Orientation

France's valley of diversity

Map of the Loire Valley from Pays Nantais through Anjou and Saumur, Touraine, to Centre-Loire
~600 miles of river, four broad zones, five principal grapes.
Hand-drawn map of the Middle Loire: Anjou, Saumur and Touraine appellations
The Middle Loire — Anjou, Saumur & Touraine, where Chenin is king.
Touraine · North bank

Vouvray AOC

Tuffeau limestone & argilo-calcaire clay

Ranges from crisp Sec to opulent Moelleux. Floral chamomile, white peach and a creamy honeyed texture, held upright by bright limestone acidity.

Sweetness range
SecDemi-secMoelleux
Chenin Blanc vines above the Loire river
Vines on the north bank, above the Loire.
Zesty · Bright · Chalky

Saumur

Sandy, gravelly & tuffeau

Primarily dry still wines and traditional-method sparkling, defined by bright, zesty acidity, chalky limestone influence and fresh orchard fruit. Tuffeau — a soft, chalky limestone — gives the signature high acidity and clean, refreshing snap.

  • Vibrant acidity
  • Chalky minerality
  • Orchard fruit
  • Traditional method
Loire vineyard on a limestone slope
Low slopes over soft tuffeau.
Schist & Power

Anjou & Savennières

Dark schist & volcanic slate

On the north bank of the Loire, Savennières is renowned for dry Chenin of immense density, power and structure. Grown on steep plateaus of dark schist, these wines demand cellaring to unfold layers of wet stone, bruised apple and beeswax.

Sweetness range
Bone dryDemi-secMoelleux
Steep Loire hillside planted to Chenin Blanc
Steep plateaus above Angers.
Dessert Chenin of the Loire

Coteaux du Layon

Schist, sandstone & clay

Never dry, always semi-sweet to sweet. Grown on well-drained schist, sandstone and clay along the Layon river, and often marked by botrytis — noble rot — or by grapes sun-dried on the vine.

  • Quarts de Chaume
  • Bonnezeaux
  • Botrytis
  • Passerillage
Sweetness range
SecDemi-secMoelleux
Vineyards along the Layon river
The Layon valley, cradle of noble rot.
Reds in the Loire

Cabernet Franc, the champion red

Tuffeau limestone · warm south-facing slopes
Light & fresh
Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
Medium & savory
Chinon & Bourgueil
Structured
Old vines on the hillside slopes of Saumur-Champigny & Chinon
Loire river and vineyards
Well-drained clay-limestone slopes above the river.
Anjou · Touraine · Forez

Gamay

Fruit-forward in Anjou and Touraine; minerally and earthy in the upper, volcanic reaches of Côtes du Forez and Côte Roannaise.

Eastern & Upper Loire

Pinot Noir

Sancerre, Menetou-Salon and Reuilly — minerally and earthy.

Anjou · parts of Touraine

Grolleau & Pineau d'Aunis

Rosés, light reds, and the backbone of many blends.

Touraine · Cher Valley

Côt (Malbec)

Lighter here than in the south-west, but robust.

Part II

The New World Renaissance

How South Africa reclaimed its historic 'Steen' to forge a globally acclaimed style rooted in old bush vines.

Chenin Blanc in South Africa

From Steen to standard-bearer

1655
Brought to the Cape by Jan van Riebeeck for the Dutch East India Company.
Local name
Known historically as “Steen” — long before it was identified as Chenin Blanc.
Today
South Africa holds the largest share of Chenin Blanc plantings in the world.
Map of the Western Cape wine regions: Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Paarl, Swartland
The Western Cape — Swartland north of Paarl.
Old Vines & Granite

Swartland

Decomposed granite & Malmesbury shale

Unirrigated bush vines. Swartland's low-yielding, un-grafted old vines — planted in the mid-20th century — produce wines of extraordinary concentration and texture.

  • Sun-baked hay
  • Dried herbs
  • Yellow apple
  • Salted citrus
  • Savory
  • Waxy
Swartland bush vines below dry hills at dusk
Dry-farmed bush vines under the Swartland hills.
Reference

Terroir & style matrix

RegionDominant soilStyle profileNotable producers
Anjou & SavennièresSchist & volcanic slateBone-dry, muscular, age-worthyFamille Joly · Closel
Coteaux du LayonSchist, slate, sandstoneNever dry — semi-sweet to sweet, from botrytis or super-ripe / dried grapesBaumard · Berlagus
VouvrayTuffeau & calcareous claySec to Moelleux; honeyed, floralDomaine Huet · Foreau
SaumurSandy, gravelly & tuffeauElectric, dry, mineral purityChidaine · Jacky Blot
TouraineClay-limestone on tuffeauFresh, floral, crisp & brightSylvain Gaudron · Henry Marionnet
SwartlandDecomposed granite & shale/schistTextured, savory, waxy, stone fruitSadie Family · Badenhorst · Mullineux
Tasting exam

Sit the masterclass quiz

Nine centuries, two hemispheres, one grape. Check what stuck — soils, sweetness levels, and which bank of the Loire you were standing on.

Open the quiz